TT 

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ice 25 cents per copy 



Designs 



and 



Instructions 



for 

Irish Crochet 

Lace 



PUBLISHED BY 

T. BUETTNER £* CO., INC. 

=The Art Needlework Specialists 



CHICAGO 



NEW YORK 




Class XJJ1&P 

Book ' " ^ 

Copyright^ . 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 






Designs 

and 

Instructions 

for 

Irish Crochet Lace 



The publishers of this book deal at wholesale 
only and strictly with the trade. Therefore 
we must request prospective purchasers 
of this book to obtain it from their dealers. 



Published by 

T. Buettner & Co., Inc. 

The Art Needlework Specialists 
Chicago New York 



Copyright 1910 by T. Buettner & Co., Inc. 
All rights reserved. 



X 

IRISH CROCHET LACE 



Making Irish crochet lace is most fascinating, greatly because it allows sufficient 
freedom in the arrangement of designs to display the workers' ingenuity. In or- 
dinary crochet the work usually progresses in rows, one worked upon the other 
in carefully counted stitches. In Irish lace numerous sprays of flowers, leaves, etc., 
in more or less conventional style are worked over a cord foundation. These rather 
solid pieces of crochet are arranged according to fancy and firmly sewed upon a 
foundation pattern (to which we refer later). The spaces between the sprays are 
then filled in with lace-like bars of crochet and the whole is finished with the 
edgings characteristic of Irish crochet lace. 

In the sprays the cord padding is an important factor, for by its tightness or 
looseness, stems or leaves of various designs can be curved in any direction desired 
and give a life-like appearance to the flower, which the counted stitches alone can 
never give. The directions for a spray may be followed very carefully by two work- 
ers, and yet they may obtain quite different results. When a spray shows signs 
of getting either saucer shaped or frilled, when it should lie flat, the worker will 
have to use her own discretion, increasing or diminishing number of stitches in 
order to bring out the desired result. The aim of the worker should be, to pro- 
duce the most artistic work she is capable of; if, by altering a curve or adding a 
leaf to any spray she can create a design more pleasing to herself, she should not 
hesitate to follow her own inclination. 

These instructions are intended for those who wish to become good workers, 
and to them it is necessary to explain the object in view. They must understand 
that two v/orkers seldom work alike, and the same spray from these directions, 
by two different persons, might turn out to be of a different size. In order to 
teach each detail in a clear manner it is necessary to give exact number of stitches 
for it, but when it is once mastered a worker may discontinue the counting. 
Every worker after a time should be able to work from a drawing and until she 
can at least to some extent follow one the highest perfection in Irish crochet can- 
not be obtained. Careful observation, however, will soon enable anyone to work 
anj' flower, composed of rings and petals, from a drawing. 

We wish our readers to bear in mind as they work the following designs, that 
they can add interest to their work by incorporating original ideas that occur to 
them as they become more familiar with the work if they are not already familiar 
with it. 

This book is intended for the experienced as well as the inexperienced. 

2 



CCI.A253789 



PREPARATION FOR WORK 

Before commencing it is necessary to provide oneself with a receptacle for ma- 
terials and work, which may be either a box or basket but never a bag. A small 
neatly lined basket is to be preferred to anything else, as one can have a strap in- 
side of the lid to hold crochet needle, scissors, etc. Small pockets should surround 
the inside of the basket to contain needles, thimble, cord, and the many sprays 
that are completed before final joining. 



MATERIALS 

Manlove's Irish lace thread should be used. It is made in sizes 36, 42, 50, 60, 
70 and 80. The size to be used must be determined by the worker according to 
the fineness or coarseness of lace desired. 

No. 30 Au Cheval Rouge Linen Lace Thread should be used for foundation. Its 
beautiful, even and firm finish makes it an ideal cord for padding the lace. 

Any ordinary well made fine steel crochet needle is suitable for the work. 

For joining the lace sprays it is necessary to have a foundation of pink cambric 
which is the exact size of the work to be made. 

THE STITCHES 

The ordinary crochet stitches, chain, single, double and treble, are used. 

There are five distinct operations in making a piece of Irish crochet lace. 1st 
—Working the sprays; 2nd— Arranging them upon the pink foundation; 3rd— Fill- 
ing; 4th— Shaping; 5th— Edging. All will be exactly described in our collar and 
cuff set which follows as our introductory lesson. 




Collar and Cuff Set 




Figure 1. 



The best method of teaching Irish crochet lace is to give detailed instruction 
for an easy piece and as such we have selected the collar and cuff set, Figure i. 
It is composed of one flower, viz :, Figure 2. One spray is worked with 2 flowers 
and the other with one. 
The materials needed are 
a spool of Manlove's Irish 
lace thread, size 42 and 
some No. 30 Au Cheval 
Rouge lace thread to form 
the cord; a fine crochet 
needle; a 3^-inch mesh 
pin ; and a pink founda- 
tion pattern. 

The Center of Flower : 
— Make a thick ring by 
winding padding thread 
20 times around a ^-inch 
mesh pin, withdraw it 
carefully and crochet 54 
double stitches over it and 

join. Take 2 long strands of padding thread, double them and 
join with a single stitch. :|: i5 double over the cord alone, miss 
one stitch on the ring, work 5 double over the cord into the next 
5 stitches on the ring. Repeat from the * star all around until 
there are nine petals. The stem is then made by working double 
stitches along 2 inches of the cord or padding thread, turning and 
working a second row over the cord into the first for about 1 inch. 
The curve is given by drawing one cord tighter than the other 
and pulling it gently into shape. Then work along cord alone 
for about 2 inches and commence flower again. After finishing 
second flower, work a second row over the cord into the first to 
where it branches off from the stem and finish by working double 
over the cord for the remainder of the stem. The ends of the cords are fastened 
by turning them over the wrong side of stem and fastening tightly. All ends are 
finished this way. Make as many flowers as will be necessary for the size of collar 
and cuffs. Baste these flowers tightly in their places on the foundation just the 
same as you sew braid upon a design for point lace and secure so that the curves 
cannot be pulled out of shape when you work in the filling. 

No beginner should attempt to put her first filling into a piece of lace but rather 
try it on something else of no importance. We will describe the method of working 
a light picot filling into a square space. A little practice is all that will be neces- 
sary to become adept enough to fill in spaces of various sizes and shapes in the 
same manner. 




Figure 2. 



Take a piece of any kind of braid and baste it upon a foundation in the form 
of a square. Take cotton and join it with a double stitch to lower right hand cor- 
ner. Work 7 chain; i single into the 5th stitch from the needle, 7 chain, 1 single 

into the 5th stitch from the needle, 2 
chain; this is a complete picot bar. Run 
the bar along the edge and observe where 
the 3rd stitch after the 1st picot comes; 
work 1 double into the braid there, repeat 
this across the edge. The illustration ends 
with a half bar only — 7 chain, 1 single into 
the 5th stitch from the needle, 2 chain, 
take the half bar across corner and into 
left hand edge. Work 1 picot bar as be- 
fore, 1 double over the 2 chain between 
the two picots of last bar in the preceding 
row, repeat the whole way across and end 
with a half bar. Work row upon row of 
picot bars until space is filled, taking care 
to get it even. Practice this filling first 
in square spaces, then irregular shaped 
ones until you can do it nicely and evenly 
before attempting to fill collar and cuff. When collar and cuffs are filled a shaping line 
is added composed as follows: 2 chain, miss space of 2 chain, 1 double into the last 
row and repeat. 




Illustration of Filling. 




Figure 3. 



Figure 3. — The little edging 
used to finish this collar and 
cuff is made as follows : Along 
the straight row work 2 chain, 
miss 2, 1 treble and repeat to 
the end. 

Second Row. — * 4 double 
under the next 2 chain, repeat from * twice more, 9 chain, take out needle and join 
between the 4th and 5th doubles by drawing through the loop, work 15 double under 
the 9 chain; 3 double under the next 2 chain, 13 chain, join to the second double 
stitch, work under the 13 chain, 4 double, 4 chain, * 3 double, 4 chain, repeat from 
* 4 times more, 4 double, 1 double under the same 2 chain of first row. This com- 
pletes the pattern, repeat from the beginning to the end of the row. Take care to 
space so that when joining it will fit nicely. 



Lace Edging. Fig. 4 

The beautiful lace edging shown 
in the illustration although a handsome 
piece of lace is not very difficult for a 
beginner. It is composed of six dif- 
ferent sprays (Fig. 5 to 10), some very 
simple and a few slightly difficult. 




Figure 5. 

Figure 5. — The spray commences 
with the stem by working 50 double 
over the cord very closely. 

First Petal. — 20 double on the cord, 
join the last 8 to form a ring, turn and 
work 1 double over the cord * 5 chain, 
3 double into the next 3 double, repeat 
from * 4 times more; work 9 double 
over the cord into the next 9 double. 

Second and Third Petals. — Work 
the same as 1st. 

Now finish the stem with a second 
row of double interspersed with 4 loops 
composed of 13 double over the cord 
alone. 




Figure 6. 

Figure 6. — Commence with a center 
ring of 18 chain and work 22 double 
into it. 




Figure 4. 



Second Row. — Chain 2, miss 1, 1 double into the next double, repeat until there 
are 14 loops. 

First Petal. — 3 chain, 1 double under the 2 chain, repeat until there are 4 loops, 
turn, 1 double under the 3 chain, * 3 chain, 1 double under the next 3 chain, repeat 
from :;: ; at 3rd open scollop, work 2 chain 1 treble under the last 3 chain of preced- 
ing row. Continue to work thus, turn, 2 scallops, turn, 1 scallop, fasten. 

Second Petal. — Miss the next loop on second round and work the same as first 
petal. 

Third Petal. — Same as second. 

Edge the leaflet all the way around by working closely as follows: 3 double over 
the cord into the leaflet 5 chain ; repeat as far as you see in the illustration and 
make 2 little leaflets as described in Fig. 5. At each point of the triangle work over 
the cord alone as follows: 20 double over the cord, join the last 12 to form a ring, 
turn and work 2 double over the cord, into the next 2 double, =:: 14 double over the 
cord alone, 2 double over the cord into the ring, repeat from * until there are 5 of 
these loops, then continue to work as illustration shows, making the second and 
third. 

Figure 7. — The spray with berry and flower is commenced as usual by making 
the stems first, then drop the cord and work the berry as follows: Chain 18, work 

22 double over it. 

Second Row. — Chain 3, miss 2, 1 
treble into the next double, * 1 chain, 
1 treble into the next double, repeat 
from * until there are 17 treble, then 
chain 3, miss 2, 1 treble into the last 
double. 

Third Row. — Turn and double 
stitch over it all the way around, now 
take up the cord and work along 
the stem for about 1 inch, then com- 
mence the solid flower by working 
first along the cord for a stem, and 
22 double for the flower and fasten 
to berry, turn, let the cord miss 1, work 1 double, 2 half treble, 9 treble, 3 half 
treble, 5 double into the next 20 stitches, turn and work double stitch all the way 
back, take up cord and double stitch over the cord back again into the 22 stitches. 
Second and Third Petals. — Make the same as first, working double stitch over 
the cord into preceding row for the first 16 stitches, then 6 stitches on cord alone, 
and continue to work back and forth. 

Figure 8. — The flower (Fig. 8) also commences 
with the stem which is concealed under the little heavy 
ring. 

Work 88 double over the cord, join the last 18 to 
form the little center ring, then work for the larger 
ring 44 double on the cord alone, join; turn, and work 
3 double over the cord into the next 3 stitches * 14 
double over cord alone, 5 double over the cord into 
the ring, repeat from * until there are 8 of these loops 
and then complete the stem by working double stitch 
over the cord and picots. 

7 




Figure 7. 




Figure 8. 




Figure 9. 



Figure 9. — The beautiful rose with the 3 half 
circles is worked over padding thread as follows : 
Commence with the center ring of 30 double over 
the cord and join. 

Second Row. — Work 33 double into the ring 
thus formed. 

Third Row. — Two double over the cord into 
the next * 2 double, 5 chain, 1 double into the 
same double, repeat from the * until there are 5 
of these loops, then commence the half circle by 
working 36 double over the cord alone, join the 
last 10 to form a ring and work * 2 double over 
the cord into the next 2 double; 5 chain, 1 double 
into the same double ; repeat from * all around 
until the end and then work 5 loops again. Com- 
mence the second and third half circle the same. After completing these half cir- 
cles work 2 rows more in the second and first round of 2 double, 5 chain, 1 double 
in the same double, to give the rose a nice full appearance. 

Figure 10. — The clover leaf (Fig. 10), is worked as 
follows : 26 double over the cord for the stem, then work 
26 double for the first petal and join, drawing the cord 
in tight and pushing the stitches closely in the center to 
form an oval shape. Make the second and third petals 
the same and work across the stem, work 3 double into 
the next 3 stitches, 5 chain, 1 double into the same stitch 
* 4 double into the next 4 double, 5 chain, 1 double into 
the same double, repeat from ::: all around or until there 
are 7 loops on each petal. Finish the stem in the same 
Figure 10. wa y an< ^ curve it as in illustration. 




Irish Lace Collar. Figure 11 




Figure 11. 
The large collar shown in the illustration is a beautiful piece of work and is 
also an excellent subject for a lesson, as it contains 3 different sprays, one very sim- 
ple and two elaborate ones. 

Should any of the elaborate ones prove too difficult for a beginner, she can sub- 
stitute some of the simpler ones and stil have a beautiful collar. Any of the sprays 
which we are going to describe would work into anything else for which Irish lace 
is used. We shall take them in order, giving the easy one first and the most diffi- 
cult last. The model was worked in Manlove's Irish lace thread No. 50, and No. 
30 Au Cheval Rouge Lace thread upon a pink foundation. 

Figure 12. — The Shamrock is very 
effective and by no means a difficult 
pattern to make. The spray is worked 
as follows: Take a cord of 3 strands 
padding thread and work 31 double 
along it for the stem. 

First Petal. — 4 double, 4 half treble, 
22 treble, 4 half treble, 4 double over 
the cord, 1 double across the cord at 
first stitch of petal to join and form 
in a loop. Pass cord behind the stem, 
work 44 double all around the loop to 
the edge and complete the petal. 
Figure 12. 9 




Second and Third Petal. — Same as first This completes the shamrock. Work 9 

double over the cord down the next 9 stitches in the stem, 26 double over the 

cord alone for the upper stem. Make the top shamrock exactly like the first one, 

then 26 double along the last 26 double, 3 double over the cord below where the 

first shamrock branches off, 9 double over the cord alone. Work a third shamrock, 

9 double over the cord along the last 9 double and then double stitch over the cord 

to the end of stem. The curving of stems must be attended to when working this; 

fasten off and overcast the cord neatly at the back of stem. Work as many sprays 

as you like and they may be used for a variety of purposes, such as fillers, etc. Make 

a small ring by winding padding thread 15 times around a lead pencil. Double 

crochet around it closely and sew in the center of each triangle. They are most 

easily added after the filling is in so that the cotton will not catch on them. 

Figure 13. — Wind some padding thread 30 times around a ^-inch mesh pin. 

Work double stitch closely around this ring, join neatly and fasten off. This 

makes a grape. Work 

11 more and join as in 

the illustration. Some 

workers crochet 

grapes together with 

a single stitch, but 

many consider sewing 

them together much 

neater and more com- 
pact. The rounded 

side of a grape should 

always go to the right 

side of work. 

Now take a long 

strand of padding 

thread, double it and 

work as follows: 

Work about 5 to 6 

inches of double stitch 

on the cord for the 

stem and join the last 

16 of these to form a 

ring. (See Fig. 13A.) 

Work 1 double over 

the cord alone to turn, 

double stitch over the 

cord into the next 50 

stitches. Now work 

25 treble on cord alone, 1 double over the cord into the preceding row, 25 treble 

over the cord alone, turn with one chain and work 1 double, 
24 treble over the cord into the next 25 treble 1 double into 
the next double, 1 double, 24 treble into the next 25 treble. 
Now work double stitch over the cord along 1 inch of stem, 
then work 40 double on cord alone. Turn with one chain 
and work double stitch over the cord into the last 20 
double. (See Fig. 13b.) 
10 




Figure 13. 




Figure 13a. 




Figure 13b. 



Second Petal. — 18 double over the cord into the back strands of the next 18 stitches, 
8 double over the cord alone, turn and double stitch over the cord back again. 
Third Petal. — Work the same as second. 

Fourth Petal. — 18 double over the cord into the next 18 stitches, 20 double on 
the cord alone, join the last 10 stitches to form a ring, turn with 1 chain and work 
double stitch back into the next 38 stitches. 

Fifth and Sixth Petals. — Work the same as 4th. 
Seventh and Eighth Petals. — Work the same as 2nd. 
Now work double stitch, over the cord to where the 
first leaf branched off, and work double stitch over the 
cord into about 1 inch of stem. 

Work 50 double over cord alone, turn with 1 chain 
and work double stitch over the cord into the last 20 
stitches. Work the second petal the same as first one 
described above, beginning with the petals, and when leaf 
is finished work double stitch over the cord to the end of 
stem and fasten under the bunch of grapes. Make a ring 
for the center of each leaf and sew on after it is finished. 
Figure 14. — This is a somewhat difficult spray 
but the practice and experience gained in previous 
lessons have undoubtedly prepared the worker suffi- 
ciently to undertake it. Chain 48 for the center stem 
and work back and forth for the left side of open- 
work semicircle which is made as follows : 3 chain, 
miss 3, 1 double in every fourth stitch, repeat until 
there are 12 of these loops. Continue to work back 
and forth, decreasing in every row until there are 
only 2 loops. Fasten off. Now take 2 long strands 
of padding thread and double them. In the loop 
thus formed join with a single to the beginning of 
the 48 chain, v/ork 48 double over the cord into the 
48 chain, turn and work all around openwork tri- 
angle, working 4 double into every 3 chain and a 
picot after every 8th double. Now work the three 
little points at bottom made as follows: 30 double 
over cord alone, join the last 10 stitches to form a 
ring and work double back again into the next 30 
double. 

Second Petal. — 15 treble over the cord into the 
next 15 stitches, 7 treble over the cord alone, turn 
and work double stitch over the cord back again. 

Third Petal. — 15 double over the cord into the 
next 15 stitches, 5 double over the cord alone and 
work double stitch back again, drawing in cord to 
shape petal as it appears in the illustration. 

Now leave the cord and work right openwork triangle like first one, making 3 
chain, miss 3, 1 double into every 4th stitch, etc. Do not break thread but draw it 
down to where you left cord and taking up cord, work all around openwork triangle 
working 4 double into every 3 chain and 1 picot after every 8th double the same 
as in the first one. 

11 





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i£fc'?ii?u 












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B^l 


^^H 


mm 




™ * V . ■ .^flH 


i^L ^L ^* ^^m ' " &%9 B 







Figure 14. 



The spiral ornament around the center is now made. It is a favorite design in 
Irish crochet, and though it is rather difficult at first, it becomes quite easy after a 
little practice. Work 14 double over the cord alone, then twist it to form it into a 
ring and work 4 double over the cord into the first 4 double of the 48 double which 
forms the center stem; * 14 double over the cord alone, form a ring, 4 double 
over the cord into the next 4 double, repeat from * all around the center when there 
should be 18 spirals. Care must be taken to twist all alike. The end of the thread 
is used to sew on the stem, which is made in one piece, it being commenced under- 
neath the ring which is sewed on to cover the ends. 

The stem which is not very difficult to make, we leave to our reader's ability as 
it can be copied by looking at illustration. Make as many sprays as may be neces- 
sary for the size of the collar, basting them upon the pink foundation, and use either 
the light picot filling as described in the previous lesson, or if preferable put in a 
sewed filling as in Fig. E and F. The sprays can also be sewed on No. 2203 Irish 





Figure E. 



Figure F. 



lace net instead of working filling. However, underneath the open sprays the net 
should be cut away. The net should show only where the filling would ordinarily 
appear. 

The edging on this collar is the same as described in Fig. 3. 

The designs for this collar are either round or square. 



12 



Collar with Jabot. Figure 15 



The collar with jabot (Fig. 15), is composed of one 
spray (Fig. 16), composed of Figures 16A and 16B. 

Figure 16A is worked as follows: Take a long 
strand of padding thread and double it. (Be sure to 
have it long enough for all the stems and flowers.) 
Over the cord thus formed work about 2 inches for 
a stem. Drop the cord, chain 18, join and make each 
petal as follows : 24 double over the cord, join to the 
stem, turn, work 2 double over the cord into the next 
2 stitches, 3 chain, 1 single into the first of 5 chain to 
form a picot, 24 double over the cord into the next 
20 double, 5 chain, 1 single into the first of the 5 chain 
to form a picot, 2 double into the next 2 double, 1 treble 
into the center ring. The next 5 petals are worked in 
the same way, except that when you come to the point 
of each between the 2 double where you turn it must 
be joined to the preceding petal. Each petal should 
occupy 1 treble on the center ring. Now work double 
stitch over the cord for the stem, and then work on 
cord alone for about 4 inches. Commence the second 
flower in the upper left hand corner as follows: (See 
illustration, Fig. 16B.) 24 double over the cord alone, 
leave the cord and work * 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble into 
the next, repeat from * to the center. Work 1 row 
more like the last to make an open petal, 1 single into 
the last stitch on the cord, 2 double over cord to turn, 
2 double over the cord in each 2 chain, across the top 
and down the side of petal. Keep the cord firm to 

shape petal nicely. 




Figure 15. 




Figure 16. 



Second Petal. — 16 double over 
the cord into the back strands of 
the next 16 double of the first petal, 
8 double over the cord alone. Turn 
with 1 double, then work 1 double, 
20 treble, 3 double over the cord back 
again. 

Third Petal. — Same as 1st. 

Fourth Petal. — Same as 2nd. 

Fifth Petal. — Same as 1st. 

After completing the five petals 
work 1 double over the cord into the 
1 st double of stem and draw tightly, 
then double stitch along stem for 
about 1 inch, then work double stitch 
on cord alone for about 2^2 inches 
and commence the flower in lower 



13 



left hand corner, which is made the same as the first. 

Then double stitch over the cord for the stem and 

work a second flower like No. 2. Finish stem to the 

end. A little ring is added to the center of each 

flower after it is finished. 

There are three of these sprays in the jabot. Single 

flowers are used for the collar. A light picot filling is 

used and the whole is edged with an edging as fol- 
lows: (See Fig. 13.) When the collar and jabot are 

filled a shaping line is added thus : * 5 chain, miss the 

space of 5 chain, 1 treble into the last row, repeat from * 

all around. Work into the next * * 5 chain, 8 double, 8 Figure 16a. 

double into the next 5 chain, 7 chain, take out the needle and join 
by drawing through the loop between the first and second of the 

8 doubles, 7 chain, join to the first 8 double. Work 4 double, 1 
picot, 6 double into the last 7 chain, 5 double into the first 7 chain, 

9 chain, join to the sixth double worked into the last 7 chain; 4 
double, 1 picot, 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double into the 
9 chain; 1 double, 1 picot, 4 double into the first 7 chain. Repeat 

from ::: :: the whole way around the edge of jabot and collar. 





Figure 16b. 



Yoke with Collar. Figure 17 



Figure 17 shows a beautiful yoke with collar, 
composed of two different sprays. (See Fig. 18-19.) 

Figure 18, which is a very simple spray and is 
also used for a number of purposes, is commenced 
with the stem. The whole is worked over a cord 




foundation with 
double stitches 
only. By look- 
ing closely at 
the illustration 
the worker can 
readily copy 
same and use 
Figure 18. ner own discre- 

tion in shaping the flowers and stems as shown. 

Figure 19. — The large spray is very beautiful 
and a little difficult to make, but by close observa- 




Figure 17. 



14 




Figure 19. 



tion, will be readily understood. 
Take a long cord and work double 
stitch along the same for about 6 
inches for the stem, then work a 
flower, as described in Fig. 16, then 
work double stitch over the cord for 
about 2 inches of stem, then work 
6o double on cord alone, join the last 
20 to form a ring, turn and work dou- 
ble stitch into the next 50 stitches, 
drop the cord and make the open 
work triangle as follows: * 3 chain, 
miss 2, 1 double into the next, repeat 
from '■'■'■ 9 times more. Now work back 
and forth, decreasing in every row 
until there is only one ; then work 
down the side of triangle to where 
you left the cord, turn, take up the 
cord, and work 3 double over the cord 
into every 3 chain, on both sides of 
triangle, join and work double stitch 
back again to the point of triangle. 
Here we make a daisy, which has 
been described in Figure 2. Then work double stitch down the other side of triangle, 
and double stitch over the cord into the remaining 10 double; work double stitch over 
the cord on the stem for about 1% inches, then double stitch on cord alone for about 
2J-2 inches. Then commence the large oval leaf with the two small petals. 

First petal, 3 half treble, 15 treble, 2 half treble over the cord alone, turn and 
work double stitch over the cord into the next 20 stitches 5 half treble, 20 treble 
5 half treble, over the cord alone, turn and work double stitch into the next 30 
stitches, drop the cord and work, * 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble into the next, repeat 
from the * all around the leaf, take up the cord and work all around 1 half treble, 
3 treble, 1 half treble, over the cord into every 2 chain. Then work a second 
petal like the first. Now work double stitch over the cord along the 2^2 inches of 
stem, then work i^4 inches of double stitches over the cord on the large stem, work 
double stitch over the cord alone for about iy 2 inches, turn and work double stitch 
over the cord on the remainder of the stem to where you started from. 

The little rose which you see in the illustration is made separately and sewed 
upon the stem. Work as follows : 20 double over the cord, to form a ring and join. 
First round * 1 double, 2 half treble, 7 treble, 2 half treble, 1 double over the cord 
alone, miss 3 stitches on the ring, 1 double over the cord into the 4th stitch, repeat 
from * 4 times more. Second round * 1 double, 2 half treble, 9 treble, 2 half treble, 
1 double over the cord alone, one double over the cord into the lower back part 
of the next double, of first round, where it covers the cord; repeat from * 4 times 
more. You have now two rows of petals. Make 1, 2, or 3 rows more, as you like 
it, with 11, 13, 15 trebles in each petal, increasing 2 stitches or more in each row. 
Be careful to make the double stitches so that the divisions between the petals go 
in straight lines, one above another. The cord must not be drawn too tightly, or 
the flower will not lie flat. 



15 



Lace and Collar 




Figure 20. 




Figure 21. 



The beautiful lace and collar (Figures 20-21), are both made and composed of the last 
two sprays described (Figures 18, 19), a well as Figure 12, and finished with the 
edging shown in Figure 3. Have a pink foundation pattern for all of them, and 



16 



after making all the sprays that are necessary for the collar and lace, baste them 
on the same. Fill in as described in our first lesson, and finish with an edging. 
If preferred, the sprays can be sewed upon woven Irish lace net, cutting the net 
away in the opening between the large flowers. 

The little bag shown in Figure 22 is also composed of the same sprays. 




Figure 22, 



Turnover Collar and Cuff Set Figure 23 




Figure 23. 



Figure 23, which is a neat little turnover collar and cuff set, is composed of 
spray described in (Figure 13a) and a few little rings, together with edging in Fig- 
ure 13. 



17 



Lace with Clover Leaves. Figure 24 




Figure 24. 

This pretty lace, which is composed of clover leaves only, has been described in 
Figure 10. They are all joined together and finished with a simple edging, the 
top having a row or two of filling — finished with a row of double crochet. 



Insertion. Figure 25 




Figure 25. 

This beautiful insertion, which can be used together with lace edging (Figure 
4), is composed of the one little spray in that lace and described in Figure 6. It 
has a filling, as shown in Figure 25a, and is finished with a straight edge of double 
crochet. 




Laces 

In the next two illustrations, Figures 26-27, we show two very fine laces, which 
are entirely different from anything we have had so far. They are of older Irish 
origin. They are formed of a rosette and a six-leaf spray. Both of these designs 
should be worked in a fine number of thread, No. 60 or 70, as this lace does not look 
well if worked in a heavy thread. The same figures can also be used for insertions. 

Figure 26. — The rosette is made thus: Make a thick ring by crocheting 24 double 
over the same. Second row; 48 treble into the 24 double, join. Third row, 3 chain 
3 double into the 




Figure 26. 



next 3 stitches, * 
5 chain, 3 double, 1 
treble into the next 
four stitches, 2 chain, 
1 treble, 3 double 
into the next 4 
stitches of ring, re- 
peat from * 5 times 
more. Fourth row, 
chain 16 and join 
with one double into 
the 2 chain, be- 
tween the two treble 
of preceding row 
and finish the same 
with two rows of 
double crochet over 
the six loops thus formed. 

The six-leafed spray is worked: chain 18, then chain 12 and join them to form 
a center ring. Work double stitches into the 18 chain, then * chain 4, miss 2, 1 double 
into the next stitch, repeat from * 4 times more and work a second row of open work 
like this back again. Finish with double crochet. 

Second leaf — 21 chain, 7 double over the next 7 chain, 14 double over the next 14 
chain into the preceding row; join to center ring, turn, work 3 double, 3 half treble, 
15 treble, into the next 21 double. Work another row back again, finishing with 
double crochet into every stitch. The other leaves are made the same as these two. 
The sprays are then joined together, as shown. The top is finished with a straight 
edge of double crochet. The bottom is finished with a plain row of double crochet, 
with intervals of little loops worked as you go along. 

Figure 27 is made thus: chain 3, join. 

Second row — Work 7 double into the ring just formed. 

Third row — 12 double into the 7 double of preceding row. 

Fourth row — 1 treble, * 5 chain, miss 1, 1 treble into the next double, repeat from 
* 5 times more. 

Fifth row — Work * 3 double under the first 5 chain, 3 chain, 3 double under the 
same, 5 chain, 8 chain, miss 1, 6 double into the next 6 chain, work 18 double all 
around the 6 chain, then work another ow with 32 doubles, making a picot into 
every fourth stitch, repeat from * all around ; fasten off. 



19 




Figure 27. 

The long, six-leafed flower, with oval petals, is made as follows : For the cen- 
ter. First row, chain 8, miss i, 7 double into the next 7 chain, cross chain with a single 
and work 8 double on the other side of chain. 

Second row — 6 double into the next 6 doubles, 2 double into the next, 3 double 
each into the next 3 double, 7 double into the next 7 double. 

Third row — 10 double into the next 10 double, 3 double into each of the next 
3 double, 11 double into the next 11 double. There are six more petals like this 
one, which are spaced around this one at equal distances. 

Shamrock — Chain 3, first row ; work 6 double over the 3 chain ; second row, work 
2 double into every stitch; third row, work 20 double into the 12 double; fourth row: 
8 double into the next 6 double, 1 picot, 8 double into the next 6 double, 1 picot, 8 
double into the next 8 double; fifth row: * chain 10, 1 double in center between first 
and second picot, repeat from * all around; sixth row: 15 double over the 10 chain, 
turn and work 25 double into the 15 of first row, turn and work 38 double into the 
25 of preceding row. The rest of the small figures are very simple in construction 
and can readily be copied by the reader. 



Insertion. Figure 28 




Figure 28. 

The insertion shown in the illustration is made with 2 of the sprays described 
in Figures 5 and 9. 



20 



Doily. Figure 29 




The pretty little 
doily illustrated in 
Figure 29, is com- 
posed of a center 
star, and 4 other 
pretty sprays. 
Figure 30 shows 
y$ of the doily en- 
larged, making it 
easier to copy the 
sprays. The cen- 
ter star is made as 
follows : Wind 
some padding 
thread 20 times 
around a mesh 
pin, remove, and 
into it work 28 
double and join. 
Second row : * 2 
double into the 
next 2 double, 4 



Figure 29 

chain 1 double into the next double, 
chain 5 for stem, chain 16 to form a 
ring, and join to the 5th chain 
Work 22 double into the 
loop thus formed, join, * * 
1 double into the next 
double, 4 chain, 1 
double into the 
same, 1 double 
into the next dou- 
ble, repeat from * * 
10 times more, 6 
double over the 5 
chain for the stem, 
1 double into the 
center ring, 4 
chain, repeat from 
* 6 times more. 

Shamroc k — 
Take 4 strands of 




21 



Figure 30. 



padding thread and work 48 double over the same. Second row: 52 double over the cord 
into the 48 double. Third row : 7 double over the cord into the next 7 stitches, * 23 
double over the cord alone, 1 double over the cord into the gth double of preceding row, 
3 double into the next 3 double, repeat from * 2 times more, 7 double into the next 7 
stitches. Fourth row : * 2 double into the next 2 stitches, 4 chain 1 double into the same 
stitch, 1 double into the next double, repeat from :;: all around shamrock. Then 
work stem as long as desired, and finish with a second row of the same. 

The 3-leafed flower — Make a thick ring by winding padding thread 20 times 
around a mesh, and work 24 double over the same. 

Second row — Take two strands of padding thread, join with a single and work 
36 double over the cord into the 24 double. 

Third row — Work double stitch over cord until about one-third around, then work 
16 double over cord alone for the first petal, drop the cord, chain 1 and work 2 
treble into the next double, 15 treble into the next 15 stitches, 1 single into the cen- 
ter ring, turn, double stitch all the way back, take up cord, work 16 double stitch 
over the cord into the next 16 stitches, 1 single over the cord into center ring. 

Second leaf — 11 double over the cord into the next 11 stitches, 7 double on cord 
alone, drop the cord, turn, 1 chain, 2 treble into the next double, 19 treble into the 
next 19 stitches, join with a single to center ring, turn and work double stitch back, 
take up cord and work 20 double over the cord into the next 20 stitches, 1 single 
over the cord into center ring. 

Third leaf — Same as first. After finishing third leaf, double stitch all the way 
around center ring, then work 2 rows of double for stem. 

The five-pointed star in the outer edge of doily is worked as follows : 24 double 
over a long cord; join, drop the cord, * chain 8 for the first point, miss 1, 6 double 
into the next 6 chain, 1 single to cross over, take up cord and work 6 double over 
cord on the other side of 6 chain, 6 double into the next stitch, 6 double into the 
next 6 double, 1 double over cord alone, miss 1 on center ring, 4 double over cord into 
the back strands only of center ring, 1 double over cord alone, repeat from * until 
there are 6 of these points, then work another row of double over the cord, all around 
the star as follows : * 3 double into the next 3 double, 4 chain, 1 double into the same, 
repeat from star *. In the front strands of center ring work * 1 double into the 
next stitch, 4 chain, 1 double into the same, 1 double into the next, repeat from *. 

The double circle also in the outer edge is worked: 14 chain, join. Second row: 
6 chain, 1 treble into center ring, * 4 chain, 1 treble, repeat from * 5 times more. 
Then take a long strand of padding thread, double it and join with a single stitch; 
work 7 double over the cord into ever 4 chain. Third row: Work another row of 
double stitch all around, increasing to keep it flat. Fourth row: 30 double on cord 
alone for half circle, miss 12, double stitch all the way round 
to where you commenced. Fifth row: 5 chain, miss 1, 1 
treble into the next, * 3 chain, miss 1, 1 treble into the next, 
repeat from * all around half circle, then work a row of dou- 
ble and picot all around both circles and fasten off. Figure 
30a shows more plainly the filling used in figure 30. 

Figure 30a. 



22 




Coat Collar. Figure 31 



The beautiful coat collar, pictured in our next illustration, is composed of 5 
different little wheels and rosettes. (See Figures 32 to 36.) 




Figure 31. 
Illustration shows one-half of collar. 




Figures 32 to 36. 
Make as many wheels and rosettes as will be required, baste upon pink founda- 
tion and sew in the filling. 

The first oval leaf is commenced with 23 chain, 1 treble in the 18th chain, 2 chain, 

1 treble in the 15th, 2 chain, 1 treble in the 12th, 2 chain, 1 treble in gth, 2 chain, 1 
treble in 6th, 2 chain and join to the first chain. 

First row: 5 chain, 1 treble into the first 2 chain, * 3 chain, 1 treble into the next 

2 chain, repeat from * all around until there are 15 of these loops. 

Second row : 1 half treble, 3 treble, 1 half treble, to be worked on each of these 
15 loops. 

Third row : 4 chain, 1 treble into each treble of previous row. 

Fourth row : Into these loops of 4 chain, work 1 half treble, 2 treble, 1 double 
treble, 2 treble, 1 half treble. Fasten off. 

For the little roses with 5 rows of petals, chain 15. 

First row: 5 loops of 4 chain each, with a double in center loop. 

Second row : On each of these 5 loops, work 1 double, 1 half treble, 4 treble, 1 
half treble, 1 double. The petals of the two following rows are each increased accord- 
ingly and the whole is edged with a row of 3 chain, miss 1, 1 treble into the next 
stitch. 

The open work rosette is commenced with 24 chain. 

23 



First row: Work 32 double into loop. 

Second row: 8 loops of 7 chain each, with double in center ring. 

Third row: One each of these 7 loops work 1 double, 1 half treble, 7 treble, 1 
half treble, 1 double. 

Fourth row: Work 8 times, 7 chain with 3 half treble, 3 picot in center of preced- 
ing row. 

Fifth row: 8 times, 12 chain, with a half treble in the center of the 7 chain of 
previous row. 

Sixth row: Into each of these 8 loops work double stitch and picot after every 
third double all around. 

The large open circle is worked over a cord foundation all the way through, 
which must be drawn in very tightly, and for which no definite number of stitches 
are given, it being left to the option of our readers to copy it as they like best. It 
is finished with loops as follows: * 2 double into the next 2 stitches, 4 chain, 1 double 
into the same stitch, repeat from * all around. 

The little roses on the 
edge of this collar are 
worked with 6 chain. 

First row: 16 double 
into the loop. 

Second row: 8 times 3 
chain, 1 treble into every 
second stitch. 

Third row : 8 times 
5 chain, 1 double into 
every treble of preced- 
ing row. Make as many 
roses as necessary, join- 
ing each one as finished. 
At the top edge they are 
joined together with 12 
to 15 chain between 
them. 



Doily. Fig. 37 




Figure 37. 



This doily has a cen- 
ter star similar to Figure 
30, and four little wheels 
and leaves (Figures 38- 
41), the description of 
which follow. The whole is edged with the edging in Figure 42. 

The first little wheel is worked over a heavy ring by winding padding thread 15 
times around a mesh pin. Work 30 double into the ring. 

First row: Work 5 loops of 7 chain, 1 treble, into center ring. 

Second row: On each of these 5 loops work 1 double, 1 half treble, 7 treble, 1 
half treble, 1 double. 

Third row: 10 times 2 picot of 3 chain each on the 1st and 7th stitch of pre- 
ceding row, with 5 chain between two picots. 



24 




Figures 38 to 41. 



Fourth row: 10 times, 7 chain, 1 double in center of 5 chain of preceding row. 
Fifth row : Double stitch with picot all around edge. 

The second wheel is commenced with 
15 chain. 

First row : Join in a loop, then work 
5 loops of 5 chain each, with a half treble 
in center loop. 

Second row: On each of these loops 
work 1 double, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 dou- 
ble treble, 1 treble, 1 half treble, 1 double. 

Third row: Work another row of 
loops of 5 times, 7 chain, 1 treble, in the 
double of previous row. 

Fourth row: On each of these loops 
work 1 double, 1 half treble, 2 treble, 2 
double treble, 2 treble, 1 half treble, 1 dou- 
ble and 1 double in the double of previous 
row. 

Fifth row: * 4 chain, 2 picot into the 2 
treble of preceding row, 5 chain, 2 picot 
into the next 2 treble of preceding row; 
repeat from star all around. 
Sixth row: 10 times, 7 chain, 1 double into the chain of preceding row. 
Seventh row : Work double stitch and picot all around edge. 
First leaf — Chain 15, 1 treble in the iith chain, 1 chain, 1 treble in 9th, 1 chain, 

1 treble in 7th, 1 chain, 1 treble in 5th, 1 chain, 1 treble in 3rd. Thirteen petals on this 
leaf as follows: Chain 15 and join to the first treble, turn and work, 2 half treble, 
9 treble, in loop thus formed. 

Second petal — 12 chain, join to next treble, turn and work, 3 half treble, 10 treble, 
on loop thus formed. 13th to 12th petals are worked like second, 13th is worked like 
first one. Then work all around a row of chain, 1 treble between each petal, double 
stitch all around chain. 

The open leaf, which is very simple, and can be copied from the illustration, com- 
mences with 16 chain, 1 treble in 13th, 2 chain, 1 treble in 11, 9, 7, 5, with 2 chain 
between each, 1 half treble into 3rd, and join to the first. Then follows another row 
of treble and chain, after which are two rows of double, all of which can be readily 
copied from illustration without further explanations. 

The edging (Fig. 42), is composed 
of little rosettes, which are worked 
first and joined together in the last 

2 loops. The spider in the center is 
sewed with the thread used to com- 
mence work, having left an end long 
enough for that purpose. They are 
joined together at the upper edge with 

a row of chain and double stitch Figure 42. 

worked over it. 




25 



Rosettes 




Figures 43 to 46. 



The pretty rosettes (Fig. 43-46), can be used alone or together with others 
for a variety of purposes such as insertion, belts, doilies, etc. They all have a 
spider worked in the center and all are made over a heavy ring. 

Figure 43. — Make a heavy ring and work 44 double into the same. 
Second Row. — 60 double into the 44 double. 

Third row. — 72 double into the 60 double, making a picot after every 3rd 
double. 

Fourth Row. — 24 times, 2 chain, 1 treble between each picot. 
Fifth Row. — Work double stitch on each of these loops. 
Sixth Row. — 8 times, 20 chain, 2 double into center ring. 
Seventh Row. — Work double and picot closely around all loops. 

Figure 44. — 44 double on a heavy ring. 

First Row. — 60 double into the 44 double. 

Second Row. — 6 times, 6 chain, 5 treble into center ring. 

Third Row. — 7 double into the 5 double, 8 double on 6 chain. 

Fourth Row. — 10 chain, 9 double into the 8 double. 

Fifth Row. — 15 double on 10 chain, 10 double into the 9 double. 

Sixth Row. — Double all around with picot on the large loops. 

Figure 45. — 44 double on ring. 
First Row. — 54 double into 44 double. 

Second Row. — 9 times 7 chain, 2 half trebles on center ring. 
Third Row. — 8 doubles on 7 chain, 1 double into each half treble. 
Fourth Row. — * 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble into the next stitch, repeat from * all 
around. 

Fifth Row. — Double stitch all around. 

Sixth Row. — Double stitch and picot all around edge. 

Figure 46. — 48 double on ring. 

First Row. — 60 double into the 48 double. 

Second Row. — 24 times, 2 chain, 1 half treble into center ring. 

Third Row. — 24 times, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 2 chain of previous row. 

Fourth Row. — * 4 double on the 3 chain, 3 chain, repeat from * all around. 

Fifth Row. — 12 times, 10 chain, 1 treble into the 8 double of previous row. 

Sixth Row. — 14 double on each loop with 3 chain after every 3rd double. 

26 



Insertion. Figure 47 



Insertion, Figure 47, can be worked with an open center as seen in illustration 
or else a little rose can be sewn upon center. It is commenced as follows : chain 3. 

First Row. — Work double stitch into 
loop. 

Second Row. — Work another row of 
double stitch increasing to keep it flat. 

Third Row. — Loops of 5 chain, 1 
double in center ring all around. 
Fourth Row. — The same as 3rd. 
Fifth Row. — Loops of 7 chain, 1 
double in center of 5 chain of preceding 
row. 

Sixth Row. — 5 chain, 2 picot (of 5 
chain each), 2 chain, 2 picot, join to the 
5th chain, 4 chain, 1 double in center 
of loop of preceding row. 

Seventh Row. — 5 picot, 1 double in 
the 2 chain between picots of preceding row. Fasten off. The rose is worked the 
same as in Fig. 53, with only 4 rows of petals. 




Figure 47. 



Lace. Figure 48 



For the center of lace in Figure 48, chain 7, 
join. 

First Row — 7 double into loop. 

Second Row — 12 double into 7 double. 

Third Row — 24 double into 12 double. 

Fourth Row — 32 double into 24 double. 

Fifth Row — 8 times 2 double, 5 chain, 2 
double on center ring. 

Sixth Row — 8 times, 2 chain, 1 picot, 3 
chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 double between picots 
of preceding row. 

Seventh Row — 8 times 5 chain, 1 picot, 5 
chain, 1 double on 3 chain of preceding row. Join together as illustrated, and finish 
with 3 straight rows on upper edge, and 1 row picots at lower edge. 




Figure 48. 



27 



Lace. Figure 49 



In Figure 49 each rosette is commenced with 12 chain; for each petal work 4 double 
on center ring, then work back and forth 3,4, 5, 6, 5, 4, 3, double and work with a row 
of single down side of petal to 
center ring, repeat from begin- 
ning until there are 8 of these 
leaves. From the point of 8th 
petal, work all around 1 row of 
chain and picot, at the same time 
joining to the smaller rosettes as 
illustrated, which are worked as 
follows: 12 chain, 24 double in 
loop thus formed. 

Second Row — * 1 double in the 
next double, 3 treble into the next 
double, 1 double in next double, 
repeat from : '- : all around until 
there are 8 of these. Along upper 
edge work straight row of treble 
and chain. On lower edge, picot 
edge with trebles, all of which can 
be seen in illustration. 




Figure 49. 



Lace. Figure 50 



Each star in Figure 50 is worked with 3 chain, which is equivalent to 1 treble, 
chain 19, 1 treble into the nth chain, 2 chain, 1 half treble into the 8th, 2 chain, 1 

double into the 

5th, 2 chain, join 

to 2nd, 2 chain, 1 

treble into the 1st 

chain. After 4th 

point is worked 

the last treble 

is not needed. 

Each point is 

worked closely 

with treble and 

double treble. 

After working all 

Figure 50. around 4 points, 

work with single stitch until the 5th double of 1st point, and work 4 chain, 1 treble, 

then work all around point 1 picot, 1 treble until you come to where you worked 

single stitch. After finishing point with 4 chain, 1 single, cross over to the next 




28 



point and work the same as first. Between 3rd and 4th points join to the next star 
with chain and double treble. The little rosettes on the lower edge are worked with 
a chain ring and 1 row of picot and treble. Three straight rows of treble and chain 
on upper edge; 3 rows of picots on lower edge. (See illustration.) 



Square Medallion. Figure 51 

Figure 51 shows a square medallion, which can be set in goods or sewed upon 
same. The square commences with a chain of 8, chain 10, and join to form a ring. 

Into this loop work 24 doubles. Along the 8 
chain work a point as follows: * * 1 double, 

1 half treble, 2 treble into the first 4 chain, 8 
double treble into the next 4 chain, turn, 1 
chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 1 picot, 1 chain, 

2 double (in the back strands only) on 
the first 2 double treble, * 3 chain, 2 double 
on the next stitches, repeat from * 4 times 
more and join with 2 double (both strands) in 
center ring, turn and work into the first 8 
front strands of point which now become back 
strands by turning. Work from * * all around 
until there are 12 points. Join 12th point to 
the 1st point on the 8 chain. Fasten off 
Join thread to center of 3 chain, between 
picots of point and work all around 9 chain, 
1 double in center of every 3 chain. 

Second Row — 1 double in every chain, and also in double between chain, which 
makes 120 doubles. 

Third Row — 60 times 2 chain, 1 treble. 

Fourth Row — * 7 double on the next 7 double, turn, 4 chain, 1 double treble in 
center of 7 double, 4 chain, join to center ring, turn, 5 double stitch over 4 chain, 
3 double into the double treble, 5 double over the 4 chain, 5 double into the next 3 
double on ring. Repeat from * until there are 12 of these little scallops. 

Fifth Row — 12 times * 3 double in center of 5 double of previous row, 2 chain, 1 
picot, 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 larger picot of 7 chain, 1 double on the point of 
scallop, 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, repeat from * all around. Two 
straight rows are then worked all around the first, composed of chain and picot, and 
joined to the point of scallops ; the second is worked with chain and treble. 




Figure 51. 



29 



Oval Medallions. Figures 52 and 53 




Figures 52 and 53. 



For the oval medallions (Figures 52-53) the little raised rose in the center is 
made first with 5 rows of petals and 8 petals to each row. Chain 5, join in a ring, 5 
chain, 1 treble in ring, * 2 chain, 1 treble in ring, repeat from * until there are 8 
trebles, chain 2, single crochet on 5 chain. Now work one double, 1 half treble, 2 
double, 1 half treble, 1 double in each space of 2 chain, end by a single crochet on 
treble. 

Second Row — 3 chain, single crochet in each treble, making 8 loops of 3 chain. 

Third Row — In these loops work 1 double, 1 half treble, 3 treble, 1 half treble, 1 
double, single crochet on single crochet. 

Fourth Row — 4 chain, 1 single on single crochet of previous row, repeat till there 
are 8 loops of 4 chain. In each loop of 4 chain work 1 double, 1 half treble, 4 treble; 1 
half treble, 1 double, single crochet on single crochet at back of work. 

Fifth Row — 5 chain, 1 single on single crochet of previous row, repeat till there are 8 
loops of 5 chain. Into each loop work 1 double, 1 half treble, 5 treble, 1 half treble, 1 
double, 1 single in single crochet. Fasten off. 

The little oval leaves can be copied from illustration without further direction, 
making some smaller and others larger. They have a little pointed edging, which is 
made by chain 2, put needle in 1st chain, and in 1 stitch of leaf, drawing thread through 
all loops on needle. It is now edged all around with a row of chain, and 3 rows of 

30 



double and picots, with a picot-edged scallop all around. On the inner side of oval 
work i row of chain and treble with picct, joining them to the rose and leaves, mak- 
ing a few double trebles on side of rose to hold it in place. 



Lace. Figures 54-55 



The two lace edgings, shown in Figures 54-55, can be worked according to your 
own taste, with either fine or heavy thread. This lace looks especially well, as most 
of the stitches show from the wrong side. 




Figure 54. 



Figure 54 — Wide lace. Work as many stars as may be necessary for the article, 
joining them together as you go along. Each star is worked as follows : Chain 7, 4 
chain, 1 treble in the 4th chain, 4 chain, 1 treble in the 4th chain, 4 chain, 1 double 
in the 1st chain, 4 chain and join. 

First Row — 6 double over the 4 chain all around. 

Second Row — The points are worked back and forth as follows : 5 double, 7 double, 
7 double, 5 double, 3 double, 2 double, turn and work with single stitch down the 
side of point to center ring, where you start the second one, making 1st double of 
2nd point into the last double of 1st point. From the center of last point, work all 
around an open row of 2 chain, 1 treble, and over this double stitch very closely, 
until you come to center between 4th and 5th points, and then make the little join- 
ing section between the stars as follows : 1 picot, 1 chain, 1 picot, 1 chain, join to the 

31 



1910 



last star, i chain, i picot, i double on the chain between the first two picots, i picot, 
i double, then double stitch to the point of star which is joined again. 

The 6th and 8th picot bars in the upper and lower edges are worked when that 
edge is put on. Work io chain between each 
bar, working 12 double over the same for 
second row. Then work a row of 1 chain, 
miss 1, 1 treble in the next all around. Then 
work double stitch over this, at the same 
time making the little scallops you see on 
the lower edge. For each loop work 9 chain 
and double stitch; picot to fill. 

The narrow edging (Figure 55) is com- 
menced with a straight row of chain, to 
which you work the little scallop. 22 
chain, turn, 5 double, turn, 3 double in center of 5 double, turn 1 double in center 
of 3. Then work single stitch down the side to the edge and work 1 row of chain 
and treble ; edge with double all around. Then finish lower edge the same as in Figure 
54- 




Figure 55. 



Small Edging. Figure 56 




Figure 56. 

The flowers in the narrow lace (Figure 56) are worked separately. Chain 12, 
join 3 double on center ring, chain 13, join to 3rd double, 17 double over the loop 
formed, join them all between the 3rd and 4th of each loop. Work 5 of these loops, 
then 3 double on center ring, chain 8 for the stem, 8 chain for the upper leaf, turn and 
work 1 double, 1 half treble, 3 treble, 1 half treble, 1 double on the 8 chain, 4 chain 
for the lower part of stem, turn, 3 double on the same, 8 chain for the lower leaf, join 
to the last flower, work 2 doubles, 4 chain, join to the 1st loop of same flower, then 
work 1 double, 1 half treble, 1 treble on the 4 chain, and 2 treble, 1 double on the 
remainder of the last 8 chain, double stitch the stem to the center ring, and sew on 
underneath. The top is edged with 4 straight rows. 



32 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




010 920 357 9 % 




